Greetings, NGD, question re 60 Duo Sonic

The original shortscale guitars; Mustangs, Duo-Sonics, Musicmasters, Jaguars, Broncos, Jag-stang, Jagmaster, Super-Sonic, Cyclone, and Toronados.

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jazznat
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Greetings, NGD, question re 60 Duo Sonic

Post by jazznat »

Hi all,

So I’ve recently discovered 22.5� scale fenders thru necessity, that being inflammatory joint issues. I jumped on (what I believe is) a decent deal for a 1960 duo sonic. After 30 years of playing, my first vintage instrument. I snagged it for approx 1700 from GC.

I’ve looked over it and found a crack in the neck pocket, on the body. I’ve attached a link to pictures for reference. It’s the only glaring issue, but I have no idea if it’s a dealbreaker, as I’m not a luthier. I was hoping some here might have experience, and an opinion. Threads are good on the adjacent screw.

I have about 2 days left to decide if it stays.

Thanks in advance

Images of 60 neck pocket

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dots
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Post by dots »

it's a 60yo instrument, so i guess damage/wear like this isn't exactly surprising. the crack also appears to be old based on the way the picture makes it look. i am sure someone more qualified than i can answer this more effectively, but i would think you could fill in that crack with some wood glue and than clamp it for a while and see how well it holds. upon second examination, it looks like someone may have tried that before...?


aside from the crack, what is the playable and cosmetic condition of the guitar?
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Post by mkt3000 »

I had a similar situation with an old 70's bolt-on Gibson. My old luthier injected glue into the crack, and clamped it -it was solid AF afterward, and was a pretty cheap fix. Like $100 total, including a setup/restring and touching up several solder joints.
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Thomas
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Post by Thomas »

Yup you could fill and clamp it. As Dots asked how did it play/feel before disassembly?

At the price you paid for it i’d Expect a mint example tho. For me it’s too much money for something that toasted.
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Post by jazznat »

Thanks all for the replies! I’ve posted more pics for those into such things.

Dots, it shows a lot of wear n tear, but plays like butter. I believe the frets have life still, but it’s hard to judge as I’m used to 6105s

Thomas and mkt, thanks for the advice. I hoped that to be the case regarding filling it, but wanted to make sure I wasn’t just wishing it so, cause it sounds so beautiful. I hear ya on the price Thomas, but it seemed like a steal when reverb examples are averaging 2500 to 3200 in better condition. But as I mentioned, I’m certainly no vintag expert.

So here’s some more pics of interest. There’s some head scratchers here ( see low E tuning post :? ) , and if I keep, that bridge and saddles are gonna go drown in some wd40...but enjoy.

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Post by kingkiller »

I’m not much of a vintage guy, don’t know a whole lot about the market, but I dig it anyways. Looks super cool
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Thomas
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Post by Thomas »

Try not to confuse the price people are asking with what they sell for. Reverb is usually the most expensive place to buy rather than a guitar shop. Some have sold on there for the low 700s. You’ve paid the highest “new old stock with case� price for that.

With the condition, crack and changed machine head this is definately players grade. Whenever I buy gear I also think about what’ll happen if I eventually sell the item on. If you were to sell that in the future I think you’d be making a severe loss. If it were me i’d return it.
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Post by MattK »

That crack can be repaired with full strength and near-invisibly using watered Titebond or a similar specialist wood glue. However, I'd approach the store and ask them to do it - they will have staff who are used to such repairs and if you're buying a $1600 guitar it's not an unreasonable request. If they won't do it, it's an easy and low risk job to tackle yourself, post here and folks will talk you through it.
The crack is not a deal-breaker if it is glued correctly now - if it goes through the other screw hole (or "bolt hole" as they're often misidentified) it might jeopardise the body. But even then a clean crack like that can almost always be glued to a greater strength than the wood around it, with no impact on value. Looks like a really nice one, and a good buy according to the spread of prices on Reverb.
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Post by MattK »

Also if you go ahead with your other plan remember WD40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT. It's a penetrating oil for dispersing water and can help with rust - but if you use it to free up the tuners, you should lubricate them properly. A little machine oil should be fine.
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Post by jazznat »

Thank you all for the replies, and advice. It’s much appreciated. This won’t be an easy decision, that’s for sure. I’ll Of course update when I make it.

Cheers, and thanks again.
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Post by robroe »

welcome to the board man!

I have an A neck mustang thats about 5 years older than yours. and it has the same tuner replacement!

if you got hand issues I highly recommend tracking down an A neck for your self. They are a fraction of the width at the nut as a normal fender B neck guitar.

short video.


[youtube][/youtube]
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Post by robroe »

A) = 1 1/2" (1.5")

B) = 1 5/8" (1.625")
the necks were still 24" inch scale like a regular mustang/jaguar neck but slimmed down a bunch at the nut.


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Post by dots »

robroe wrote:welcome to the board man!

I have an A neck mustang thats about 5 years older than yours. and it has the same tuner replacement!

if you got hand issues I highly recommend tracking down an A neck for your self. They are a fraction of the width at the nut as a normal fender B neck guitar.

short video.


[youtube][/youtube]
*younger, no? his is a 1960
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Post by robroe »

dots wrote:
robroe wrote:welcome to the board man!

I have an A neck mustang thats about 5 years older than yours. and it has the same tuner replacement!

if you got hand issues I highly recommend tracking down an A neck for your self. They are a fraction of the width at the nut as a normal fender B neck guitar.

short video.


[youtube][/youtube]
*younger, no? his is a 1960
WUT?

R E A D A B O O K

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Post by dots »

wut? he said it's a 60. yours is a 65, but you said it's older. what am i missing?
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Post by kingkiller »

RAHB needs to R E A D A C L O C K
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Post by robroe »

lol i posted that shit at midnight O' Thirty and 1am. and its Goat Season.


[youtube][/youtube]

Urite. anyways all the other shit was helpful. quit focusing on my bullshit posts
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Post by jazznat »

First off, thank you to everyone who assisted me. It was all appreciated. Good crew here.

So, in the end, the 1960 ended up going back. My luthier was finally able to get back to me, and pointed out some structural integrity issues he was concerned about. While he liked the possibilities of a full fix, he felt some of the repairs necessary to make it gig worthy, might devalue it as a vintage instrument. So I’d be paying to fix it, and killing future resale. He suggested that I ask for another 250 off, due to the above. Upon speaking to the original shop who sold it to me, I was met with cold indifferent resistance, and truthfully, I wasn’t thrilled with their response. So it was returned.

Today, I purchased (elsewhere) one of those new American Performer Mustangs. So I guess I get to stay? :D

Thanks again all!

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Post by benecol »

That is a beautiful guitar - well done, and welcome to the forum.
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Post by BearBoy »

Yeah, very pretty - love that colour. Interested to hear your thoughts on it.

And, welcome!
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