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VM Jaguar Question
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plaidbeer
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:18 pm    Post subject: VM Jaguar Question Reply with quote

I might be trading for one in the next few days and I just don't know much about the mechanics of guitars. In explaining the condition of the guitar (sounds like it hasn't been set up, either), he said that there is a bolt missing on the high E saddle. Is this something minor that anyone can basically fix or is it something that will be an issue?
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George
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hes probably referring to one of the grubs. there are two either side of each saddle that are used to change the height of it - same as a strat or modern tele bridge. this would make sense because the squier bridges are not well put together in this respect as the grubs are too small for the saddle, so will likely rattle out if uncared for.



it may play "okay" with one missing, but not ideal. it is a very minor fix but you will likely struggle buying one individual grub, and may need to source a new saddle or set of grubs (maybe scalers have spares), but if it's a good deal don't let it put you off.
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plaidbeer
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

George wrote:
hes probably referring to one of the grubs. there are two either side of each saddle that are used to change the height of it - same as a strat or modern tele bridge. this would make sense because the squier bridges are not well put together in this respect and they seem a little small, so will likely rattle out if uncared for.



it may play "okay" with one missing, but not ideal. you will likely struggle buying one individual grub, and may need to source a complete new saddle or set of grubs, but if it's a good deal, don't let it put you off.


Thanks, George. It's an even swap in terms of value (my VM Mustang or microKorg). Any idea how much I'm looking at to fix it? I'm hesitant to do the deal if it's going to require much in the way of additional funds.
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George
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it's replacing a single saddle grub then we're talking cents in terms of repair cost. it's a very minor job and easy to fix yourself with an allen key, but it may be a pain in the arse to source one on its own. the best thing would be to ask in the classifieds - someone is bound to be able to help you out.

you could actually double-fuck him and say "okay, but i'm taking one of my mustang's grub to compensate" because both the VM jaguars and mustangs use the same grubs - LOL!
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Bacchus
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

George wrote:
you could actually double-fuck him and say "okay, but i'm taking one of my mustang's grub to compensate" because both the VM jaguars and mustangs use the same grubs - LOL!


Yep, do this.
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YuriK
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or do an bridge swap.
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Noirie.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ykk211 wrote:
Or do an bridge swap.


Aye. I had a Squier Jazzmaster and the bridge was utter shite. You could probably a score a replacement bridge for cheaps.
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JordanD
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

May even have a set of mustang saddles or at worst a spare grub screw from an old bridge. Problem solved son.
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ekwatts
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hear the Masturby bridge is the way to go.
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singlepup
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's the grub screw, you can find a suitsble replacement at Ace Hardware for 50 cents. Just bring one of the existing grub screws and have an employee match the size. It's definitely metric.

But I gave up on the Squier JM/Jag bridge as well. It really is a pain. If you like the guitar, a StayTrem is a sound investment. Regular Mustang bridge will work too, but it won't be the correct radius.
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plaidbeer
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

singlepickup24 wrote:
If it's the grub screw, you can find a suitsble replacement at Ace Hardware for 50 cents. Just bring one of the existing grub screws and have an employee match the size. It's definitely metric.

But I gave up on the Squier JM/Jag bridge as well. It really is a pain. If you like the guitar, a StayTrem is a sound investment. Regular Mustang bridge will work too, but it won't be the correct radius.


I have no experience with Jaguars. After thinking about it, I'd have to replace the bridge anyway from everything I've read and this Jag hasn't been properly setup, which is another $40. If it was already properly set up and I didn't have dole out $ for a new bridge, I'd be more enthusiastic about it. I kinda wanted a Jag, but I really want a Jazzmaster more (I liked the JM neck pickup + Filtertron bridge pickup in my old Blacktop JM). I might just go with a JM instead. Thanks to everyone for the advice so far.
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NickD
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ekwatts wrote:
I hear the Masturby bridge is the way to go.


Try it before you knock it.

To the OP, the VM bridges really let the guitar down, get a Staytrem, Mustang or Mastery bridge for it - Staytrem is the best bang for buck, Mastery is a bit spendy for a Squier, and the Mustang bridge just isn't as good. You would have the same issues with a VM Jazzmaster as well FWIW.
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meltedbuzzbox
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NickD wrote:
ekwatts wrote:
I hear the Masturby bridge is the way to go.


Try it before you knock it.

To the OP, the VM bridges really let the guitar down, get a Staytrem, Mustang or Mastery bridge for it - Staytrem is the best bang for buck, Mastery is a bit spendy for a Squier, and the Mustang bridge just isn't as good. You would have the same issues with a VM Jazzmaster as well FWIW.


Another vote hear for staytrem or mastery. Staytrems have the added bonus of being cheaper.

Just make sure you order a 9.5" radius. The usual stock Fender Mustang bridges are 7.25" and a bit pants in my opinion, but still more friendly than the stock bridges.
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Josh
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dipped the grub screws in wax on mine and it fixed all the issues i had with those VM bridges. if you filed a deeper groove the strings wont jump either, that said i haven't done that and the strings dont jump out on mine and i beat the shit out of my jazzmaster, bridge sits flush on the body on mine too so there's really not a high break angle or anything, dont have one of those little things you put on the trem, forget what they're called.

but if you got the cash, staytrem is where it's at, in my head i just can't justify spending more than like 30 bucks on a bridge though so i just tried to make mine work.

one thing i noticed before i fixed my bridge is that sucker loved to drop the saddles IN THE MIDDLE OF A GIG. always needed to bring a backup before now, also lost the alan key it came with it so i have to use scissors to raise it/lower it.
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plaidbeer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have experiences with the Warmoth Modified Mustang Bridge?

http://www.warmoth.com/Modified-Mustang-Bridge-Chrome-P616.aspx
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JordanD
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

plaidbeer wrote:
Anyone have experiences with the Warmoth Modified Mustang Bridge?

http://www.warmoth.com/Modified-Mustang-Bridge-Chrome-P616.aspx


I have one on my CIJ Jazzy. I dont see the point personally as the radius on a mustang bridge is already set. Not to mention it just brings back the issues of little screws rattling and being annoying.

Josh, I dunno what you define as "beating the shit" but I can't use my my Jazzy live without the low E jumping out all over the show and I'm not a massively aggressive player. I love the guitar but seriously, they're not meant to be played that hard. I've tried all the setup tips over the years but the strings just don't stay on the bridge either stock, or a mustang one. The best setup I had for the stock bridge was Frans' method of bridge low, saddles high.
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meltedbuzzbox
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JordanD wrote:
plaidbeer wrote:
Anyone have experiences with the Warmoth Modified Mustang Bridge?

http://www.warmoth.com/Modified-Mustang-Bridge-Chrome-P616.aspx


I have one on my CIJ Jazzy. I dont see the point personally as the radius on a mustang bridge is already set. Not to mention it just brings back the issues of little screws rattling and being annoying.

Josh, I dunno what you define as "beating the shit" but I can't use my my Jazzy live without the low E jumping out all over the show and I'm not a massively aggressive player. I love the guitar but seriously, they're not meant to be played that hard. I've tried all the setup tips over the years but the strings just don't stay on the bridge either stock, or a mustang one. The best setup I had for the stock bridge was Frans' method of bridge low, saddles high.


I use 11s and a staytrem bridge and I haven't managed to pop a string out of it saddle on my jags or JMs. I think my latest JM is on 10s with a staytrem and that's been fine too. The mastery bridges can take huge amounts of abuse too.
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JordanD
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not got a staytrem on the jazzy, or used one for that matter but I had one on my old VM Jag and constantly popped the bottom string. I very rarely have issues with other strings, just that bottom E.
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Josh
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JordanD wrote:
plaidbeer wrote:
Anyone have experiences with the Warmoth Modified Mustang Bridge?

http://www.warmoth.com/Modified-Mustang-Bridge-Chrome-P616.aspx


I have one on my CIJ Jazzy. I dont see the point personally as the radius on a mustang bridge is already set. Not to mention it just brings back the issues of little screws rattling and being annoying.

Josh, I dunno what you define as "beating the shit" but I can't use my my Jazzy live without the low E jumping out all over the show and I'm not a massively aggressive player. I love the guitar but seriously, they're not meant to be played that hard. I've tried all the setup tips over the years but the strings just don't stay on the bridge either stock, or a mustang one. The best setup I had for the stock bridge was Frans' method of bridge low, saddles high.

I usually keep the saddles as high as I can, with the base of it flush, that's weird mine doesnt really jump at all, I kinda consciously pick a little different to make sure it doesn't jump. I think I have 10s or 11s on it. mines pretty solid though, haven't had any issues with it since I messed with the bridge.
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JordanD
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Josh wrote:
JordanD wrote:
plaidbeer wrote:
Anyone have experiences with the Warmoth Modified Mustang Bridge?

http://www.warmoth.com/Modified-Mustang-Bridge-Chrome-P616.aspx


I have one on my CIJ Jazzy. I dont see the point personally as the radius on a mustang bridge is already set. Not to mention it just brings back the issues of little screws rattling and being annoying.

Josh, I dunno what you define as "beating the shit" but I can't use my my Jazzy live without the low E jumping out all over the show and I'm not a massively aggressive player. I love the guitar but seriously, they're not meant to be played that hard. I've tried all the setup tips over the years but the strings just don't stay on the bridge either stock, or a mustang one. The best setup I had for the stock bridge was Frans' method of bridge low, saddles high.

I usually keep the saddles as high as I can, with the base of it flush, that's weird mine doesnt really jump at all, I kinda consciously pick a little different to make sure it doesn't jump. I think I have 10s or 11s on it. mines pretty solid though, haven't had any issues with it since I messed with the bridge.


Cool I'll maybe try lowering the bridge and raising the saddles.
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